In February I took you tapas bar hopping through the lively northern Spanish city of La Coruna where we fell under the charms of the Galician culture. Eager for more enchantment we set sail from the town’s medieval quarter to explore the remote and historic Galician coast. Sailing west we instantly entered Coasta da Morte, Coast of Death, named for the hundreds of shipwrecks that litter the wild cliffs and indented rocky coastline along with the local Celtic legends that tell of doomed cities drowned beneath the sea.

We experienced an enjoyable sail and anchored at the small fishing port of Lages. Famed for its long sweeping white sand beach backed by a small café-lined street we’d been hoping to visit our old friend Frank at Bar Mirdaor. Unfortunately we discovered his place shuttered tight and instead chose a lively open aired bar where we enjoyed stuffed peppers and excellent fresh grilled tuna.

Galician Stuffed Peppers
1¼ lbs ground, beef, pork or turkey
2 tablespoons minced Spanish cured ham or prosciutto
2 clove garlic - minced
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 onions - chopped
1 clove garlic
1 carrot - finely chopped
2 tomatoes – skinned, seeded, and chopped
3 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 cup chicken broth
few strands saffron
1 bay leaf
½ cup dry white wine
¼ cup uncooked rice
1 tablespoon dry white wine
8 medium red and/or green bell peppers
salt and pepper
In bowl combine meat, ham, garlic and 1 teaspoon salt, let sit while preparing sauce. To make sauce sauté ½ the onion, garlic and carrot in oil until onion has wilted. Stir in 1 tomato and 1 tablespoon parsley - cook 2 minutes, add broth, saffron, bay leaf, wine, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Sauté remaining onion in oil until wilted, add meat mixture and sauté until browned. Stir in 1 tomato, parsley. Season to taste. Add rice and wine, simmer 5 minutes. Cut tops off peppers, remove membrane and fill loosely with meat mixture. Cover pepper with caps and arrange in casserole. Bake 1 hour 350˚F spooning sauce over the peppers as they cook. Serve with salad.

Tuna Steaks with Onion and Vinegar
4 tuna steaks
6 cloves garlic mashed to paste
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion – slivered
4 garlic cloves – minced
2 teaspoons paprika
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
3 tablespoons fish broth or clam juice
pinch of sugar
salt and pepper
Rub tuna with salt, pepper and garlic. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons parsley and let sit 20 minutes. In a skillet heat oil and sauté onion until wilted. Add minced garlic, cook 1 minute, stir in paprika, vinegar, salt and pepper, sugar, remaining parsley and broth. Cover and cook on low for 10 minutes. Meanwhile grill tuna. Serve, spooning onion over tuna.

Our next stretch of coastline sailing took us around Cape Vilan containing the picturesque fishing and lace making port of Camarinas. Mugia, on the southern headland, was our evening port as we wanted to trek to the 17th century church La Virgen de la Barca situated on strangely shaped rocks at the exposed granite headland. Huge breakers smashed into the narrow point and the ornate church was packed and overflowing with a wedding. As we glimpsed inside the church to view the many lighted ship models suspended from the ceiling a stunning rendition of Ave Maria wafted towards us.

On my way back into town I stopped by the bakery, where inspired by the church, I purchased a Tarta de Santiago. Decorated with the Cross of the Order of Santiago this traditional almond treat is named in honor of Santiago (St. James), the patron saint of Spain whose remains are buried inland at Santiago de Compostela, the greatest goal for pilgrims since medieval Europe. Strangely enough this cake also seems to be the main lure of passers-by into many cafés throughout region.

Tarta de Santiago
1 cup flour
1½ cups sugar
5 eggs
9 tablespoons butter
2 2/3 cups raw ground almonds
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 lemon - juice and zest
powdered sugar
Using a grinder or a food processor, grind the almonds until fine. In a bowl blend butter and sugar until fluffy – add eggs one by one blending for 5 minutes. Combine flour, almonds, and baking powder, add slowly to mixture, stir in lemon. Bake cake in a greased round 10” pan for 40 minutes at 350 F degrees until top is golden and a knife comes out clean when inserted. Cut out an ornate cross stencil from a piece of paper and after to cake has cooled place the cross in the centre of the cake and dust with powered sugar.

Dolphins guided our passage around Cape Finisterre, literally meaning the end of the world, and we delighted in sunshine as we sailed towards Combarro on our final Galician quest. With a new marina under construction we anchored off the waterfront and in the late afternoon we entered Combarro’s labyrinth of little narrow cobbled twisting lanes.

We’d stepped back to a time when everything was built of stone and wrought iron. Small restaurants, tiny bars, skinny two-stored homes, and eclectic shops selling witches and locally distilled aguardeinte (firewater) jostled against each other on the step slope. Granite granaries lined the foreshore, raised up off the ground on pillars away from the rodents and damp while columned grape vine-covered courtyards looked inviting. We shared the crowed cobbled alleys with Spanish families who were also appreciating the town’s old charm. Laden tables and counters lined the walkways selling local cuisine. We devoured slices of large empanadas and delicious homemade gelato, managing to avoided many more tempting deserts. As the sun slowly slid behind vineyards on the distant shore a warm magical sunset glow lingered over the village. Ahh… this is what we were here for Galicia at its best!

Tuna and Goat Cheese Empanada
It is possible that Celtic influences are also the reason for the Galician empanada and although they are often associated with South America, they originated here in Galicia where many varieties are immensely popular.
1 tablespoon olive oil
5 tablespoons minced onion
6 oz canned tuna, packed in olive oil
4 oz goat cheese
3 oz pimento-stuffed olives - chopped
6 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
5 tablespoons capers - chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
salt and pepper
2 cloves garlic - minced
16 oz puff pastry
1 egg - lightly beaten
Heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Using a fork, mash tuna with onion, garlic, cheese, olives, pine nuts, capers, paprika, salt and pepper. Divide pastry in half, on a floured surface roll each portion into a 13-inch circle, 1/8 inch thick. Place one pastry on a large baking sheet coated with cooking spray and cover with filling leaving a 1-inch border. Place remaining portion of dough over filling, pinch edges to seal. Cut several slits in top of dough to allow steam to escape. Brush with egg. Bake at 350° for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

I first spotted Joyant anchored off Tobermory, Scotland and couldn’t help but admire her robust pedigree. She’s a burgundy Chuck Paine-designed Apogee 50 from Seattle. When we again shared an anchorage near Oban I got to meet her equally robust and seasoned owners of 12 years; Dorothy and Tom Wadlow.

Our paths crossed again a year later in Longyearbyen, Svalbard when we shared the only dock and an impromptu dinner aboard Joyant. Dorothy appears curious, enthusiastic and organized in the galley and I was soon to discover that she also lends her traits to her son Tim, who is representing the U.S. in the 49ers at the Olympics.

What attracts you to cruising?
We’ve always sailed; racing and vacationing. It seemed natural do something we enjoyed; sailing to places you can’t get to by car and being able to have our “home”. I’m a birdwatcher and enjoy having a continual supply of new and different birds. I love seeing new places and when I travel by boat I see it in a different way than as a regular tourist. I appreciate remote anchorages but also delight in meeting new friends.

What are your galley priorities?
My number one priority is that the galley be near the main saloon action and conversations below, not off in a corner. A galley also needs to have easy cockpit access and a sharp knife.

What is your galley layout?
The aft end of the galley has a bulkhead. A counter with top opening fridge and freezer is outboard aft of the gimbaled stove. The fridge has a door in the lower level for drinks. Ahead of the stove is an “L” shaped counter with double sinks. This set up allows you to be braced when working at the stove, which is opposite the sinks, plus gives a clear view to the saloon.

Would you change anything?
The stove gimbals don’t work well. It gets hung up after 25 degrees - especially on port tack.

Do you get seasick?
Not severely, but I know when to take Stugeron to prevent queasiness allowing me to read and use binoculars. After a few days I usually have my sea legs and don’t take anything. Cookies are my comfort food. I like to bake and we seem to crave sweet things anyway. These favorite recipes are quick, and can be varied.

Basic Bar Cookies
¾ cup oil - canola, olive, etc
¾ cup white sugar
¾ cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
1½ cups flour
1 cup oats
2 cups trail mix, chocolate chips, dried fruit, M & M’s, etc
1 cup nuts
    Mix ingredients together in order given. Pat into greased 13x9x2 pan. Bake at 375° 30 minutes. Slice into bars.

Dorothy Green’s Cinnamon Trail Bread
Dorothy, a friend I birded with in San Diego would bring this on trips. I always vary the fruit and nuts.
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup water
1½ cups mixed dried fruit
1 tablespoon butter, margarine or oil
1 beaten egg
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon (yes, that much!) cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup nuts
In a sauce pan heat the first 4 ingredients to dissolve sugar a little, cool. Stir in remaining ingredients. Pat into greased 8x4 bread pan. Bake at 350° for 50 until knife comes out clean.

What galley preparations do you for passages?
I generally do the provisioning; planning every meal but not the order in which they will be eaten. I make and freeze dinners before the passage but that’s not always possible. I don’t can food.

Who works in thegalley?
If breakfast is more than cereal, Tom does it. We both make lunch. I do dinners and clean up. Recently we’ve done passages with crew. On our transatlantic I assigned each crewmember four meals to provision and cook. For Svalbard, a friend volunteered to provision and cook several dinners which I really appreciated. With crew the rule is whoever cooks doesn’t do the dishes.

What is your cruising diet?
I get inspired by local ingredients and specialties. We eat what’s available rather than having infinite choices like at home in the States. Lately in Norway we’ve tried caramel-colored sweetish goat cheese, caviar in a tube, prawns, fish pudding, fish cakes and beautiful berries.

Have you made mistakes?
I forgot my Norwegian dictionary and I ended up with buttermilk, I think that’s what it was, instead of milk - not good in your coffee. I also bought whole kernels of wheat instead of whole wheat flour.

What is a memorable meal?
Friends came to Antigua and brought frozen steaks knowing that I rarely purchase beef in foreign countries (especially tropical ones). They made this fabulous, and different, herbed red wine sauce topped with blue cheese. What a treat.

Filets with Blue Cheese and Wine Sauce
4 6oz beef filets, rub with salt and pepper
3 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup red wine
4 teaspoons dried tarragon
4 oz Roquefort blue cheese
    Melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet and cook filets 4 minutes each side, remove to plates. Add wine and tarragon to skillet, simmer 3 minutes to reduce and thicken. Swirl in remaining butter. Pour over meat and top with blue cheese.

What is your favorite cookbook?
It changes frequently. I don’t use cookbooks much aboard, but I do keep a file of my standard favorites and ones I want to try.

What provisioning did you do for your month cruise of Svalbard?
Two friends joined us making this was the largest crew for the longest time I’d ever provisioned for without knowing whether I could get additional supplies. Tom and I had been busy cruising Scotland and Norway for two months before they arrived so I wasn’t able to pre make many dinners. Not wanting to worry about meals while also standing watches, navigating and doing other duties I worked at being organized. I stocked breakfast, mostly cereal, and lunch options for a month.

I planned and provisioned for 30 dinners for four crew based on frozen provisions and cans. As a back up, we had a few freeze-dried dinners, not included in the 30. I kept a meal list and every few days I’d choose a few. We didn’t get to all of the cans as the gateway port of Longyearbyen in Svalbard had better provisions than I expected, so much so that one of our crew bought provisions and made several surprise meals.

I’m always after recipes which take mostly canned or non-perishable ingredients. Here are two favorites

Jackie’s Tortilla Soup
2 large cans chicken meat
2 cans chicken with rice soup and equal amounts of water
1 small can chopped green chilies
1 can chicken broth
1 can corn
½ jar picante sauce or salsa
1 can black beans
Simmer all ingredients in a pot. To serve, crush a handful of tortilla chips in each bowl, add soup, grated cheese, fresh cilantro and sour cream if can do. Don’t forget to hand around Tabasco.

Chinese Layered Casserole
1 large can tuna – place in bottom of greased casserole then layer
1 can artichoke hearts quartered
1 can mushroom soup – mix with next 2 ingredients and pour over
¼ cup milk
1tablespoon freeze dried chives
1 can sliced water chestnuts - last 3 layers
½ can sliced almonds
1 can crispy Chinese noodles
Bake at 375˚ for 30 minutes. Serve soy sauce on the side.

What advice can you offer?
Be organized so you don’t have to worry but don’t be a slave to your plan. Try local foods whenever possible, it’s a fun part of cruising.

After crossing the Bay of Biscay from England we made landfall at La Coruña - the gateway city to Spain’s northwest corner region Galicia. Eager to explore the medieval quarter we stepped ashore for a lively evening of tapas bar hopping through the narrow cobbled lanes lined with busy restaurants. The custom is to window shop for tapas, and artfully arranged platters looked tempting with extensive varieties of local seafood, vegetables and desserts. Other tapas bars such as El Rey de Jambo (King of Ham) specialize in cheeses, breads and meats; their entire ceilings hanging with large legs of mountain cured hams. As we wandered from one venue to the next we’re forced to weave our way through the crowed tables and chairs that project into the alleys. If I slowed my step or let my eye wander I’d have to dodge waiters wielding menus who’d chat away in the local Galician dialect inviting us to take a seat.

Tapas translates to small plate and though most tapas menus are extensive the locals generally choose a bar that is know for it’s one or two signature dishes before moving to another location. As first time visitors we discovered it’s pretty much hit and miss on what to choose, especially when pronunciation gave us away as tourists. Often when the waiter would ask for our order and we were about to point at something on the menu, in the window, or on a neighboring diner’s plate, thankfully someone nearby would offer a suggestion. The unspoken rule is to order two tapas per round of drinks so bar hoping with a crew gives you ample tapas of significant variety to easily replace a meal. It’s most certainly an entertaining evening if you’re prepared to go with the flow.

I’m always partial to marinated olives and even though they are not grown in Galicia each bar produces its own olive recipe. I now always have a jar of marinated olives in the fridge and this recipe is one of my favorites.

Mixed Olives with Lemon and Garlic
1 ½ cups black olives
1 ½ cups green olives
1 lemon - sliced
4 cloves of garlic – diced
2 green chili peppers
1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Place all ingredients in a clean dry jar, shake and seal. Leave for at least twenty-four hours.

Here are another couple of simple cold tapas that can be prepared before time.

Blue Cheese, Apple, and Walnut Spread
¼ pound blue cheese - room temperature
2 teaspoons raisins
1 tablespoon medium-sweet sherry
1 tablespoon cream
2 tablespoons finely chopped apple
1 tablespoon finely chopped walnuts
1 tablespoon chopped pine nuts
¾ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Soak raisins in sherry for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving sherry. Combine cheese, cream, reserved sherry until smooth. Mix in remaining ingredients. Serve with crusty bread slices.

Cherry Tomatoes Stuffed with Olive Tapenade
32 cherry tomatoes
½ cup olives with pimento
1 ½ teaspoons capers
1 teaspoon brandy
¼ teaspoon lemon zest
2 tablespoons olive oil
fresh oregano
Chop olives and capers until they are minced. Combine olives with brandy, zest and oil. On each tomato, using a sharp knife, slice off the stem end (1/4-inch down) and the bottom (1/8-inch up). Scoop out juice and seeds using a ¼ inch teaspoon. Spoon some tapenade into each tomato and garnish with oregano.

When bars hopping I generally chose tapas that I’d never cook myself such as grilled sardines (they’re really stinky) and pimientos de pardon; small in season peppers that can be anything form fiery to mild served grilled, piping hot, and sprinkled liberally with rock salt. The following tapas recipes are more complicated as they need to be served hot thus adding organizing and time management to the recipe.

Mussels topped with Sun-dried Tomato Sauce
1 dozen medium mussels
¾ cup water
¼ lb sun-dried tomatoes - not in oil
1 cup water
5 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon fresh oregano
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
¾ cup olive oil
In a saucepan cover sun-dried tomatoes with water, bring to a boil for 8 minutes. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes, allow to cool, drain. Simmer sun-dried tomatoes with oil, garlic, oregano and thyme 15 minutes, puree. Makes 1½ cups. In a skillet place mussels and cover with water. Bring to a boil, lower heat cover and cook removing mussels as they open. Remove mussel from shells. Place mussel in half shell onto oven tray and cover with sun-dried tomato sauce. Heat in oven until bubbly before serving.

Chorizo Simmered in Sherry
Having made this tapa a few times I find that a well-cured chorizo works best so if you discover your chorizo is too fresh leave it to hang for a few days at room temperature.
½ lb sweet chorizo - sliced
dry Spanish sherry
In a skillet, cover chorizo with sherry, bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Remove chorizo and serve on crusty bread or ¼ inch bread slices from a long narrow loaf that have been brushed with oil and baked at 350˚F about 8 minutes, turning once.

Sautéed Mushrooms and Shrimp
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large clove garlic - minced
8 large mushroom caps
rock salt
fresh ground pepper
8 shrimp - peeled
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
In a skillet, heat oil, and lightly sauté garlic. Spoon garlic into mushroom caps pressing garlic down into the hollow. Sauté mushrooms, caps down, for a few minutes until brown. Turn mushrooms and sauté other side until done. Turn over and remove to a warm platter, sprinkle with salt and parsley. Raise heat, season shrimp with salt, and sauté until just done, about 1 minute. Place a shrimp atop each mushroom securing with a toothpick. Sprinkle with parsley and serve warm.

Cheese and Cumin Puffs
Local cheeses abound in Galicia and one of the well known favorites is Tetilla; a creamy piquant farm cheese in the shape of a women’s breast. This delicate cheesy tapa is best made with freshly ground cumin either in a motor or spice mill.
1 lb puff pastry - refrigerated
¼ pound soft cheese - finely grated
1 tablespoon ground cumin
freshly ground pepper
Mix together cheese, cumin and pepper. Roll pastry 1/8 inch thick and cut out 32 1½ inch circles. Place a teaspoon of cheese mixture in the center of 16 rounds. Wet edges with water and cover with second circle of pastry. Press edges together with fingers then crimp with a fork. It’s best to do a few at a time and keep remaining circles chilled as they must not soften if they are to puff properly. Arrange pastries on a baking tray and place on the upper rack of a 425°F oven. Bake 6 minutes, until brown. Turn off the oven and leave the pastries in the oven for a few minutes to dry the inner layers. Serve warm.

Tea Scones

• 3 cups plain flour
• ¼ cup butter
• 5 teaspoons baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoon caster sugar
• 1 cup milk
  Sift dry ingredients together, cut in butter, add milk to form a soft dough. Form a block 1" high, cut 3" squares and place on a flour tray with a gap between scones. Bake 12 minutes 425 F. Makes 13.

Dee's Basic Plum Jam

6 lbs plums
• 1½ cups water
• 6 lbs sugar
  The rule for most jams is 1 lb of sugar per lb of fruit. When making jam in which the fruit is low in pectin; strawberry, pineapple or quince you will need to add lemon juice. Boil plums and water until smooth and pulpy. Scoop off stones, they will float to the surface. Boil briskly for 15 minutes or setting point is reached. Pour into sterilized jars. Makes 9 jars.

Cornish Pasty

• 2½ cups plain flour
• ¾ cup butter
• water
• ½ lb steak - cut into cubes
• 3 large potatoes - diced
• ½ turnip - sliced
• 1 onion - diced
• egg - beaten
• salt and pepper
  Sift flour, rub in butter with finger tip. Mix into a stiff dough with water. Turn on to a lightly floured board, divide into 4 balls and roll into rounds 1/4 inch thick. Mix meat, potatoes, turnip, onion and salt and pepper. Place a little mixture in the center of each round, brush edges with beaten egg, fold pastry over filling and crimp edges together. Make a slit to let out steam and brush with beaten egg to glaze. Bake in a pre-heated oven for 40 minutes at 450 F. Serves 4.

John's Cornish Crab Salad with Gazpacho Sauce

• ½ red pepper - diced
• ½ green pepper - diced
• ½ cucumber - diced
• 2½ cups tomato juice
• 1 shallot - diced
• splash of red wine vinegar
• sea salt
• 1 cock crab - 2lbs cooked crab meat
• 4 handfuls salad leaves
• lemon juice and olive oil - salad dressing
  Mix peppers, cucumber, tomato juice, shallot and vinegar. Spoon crab meat on the centre of a plate, garnish with dressed salad leaves then drizzle gazpacho around the edge of the crab. Serves 4.