September 23, 2020 0630 hrs, 48.27N, 122.51W Log: 625 miles
At anchor, Hunter Bay, Lopez Island
Baro: 1008, Cabin Temp: 65 F, Cockpit Temp: 65 F, Sea Water: COLD!

MASSIVE STORM SYSTEM HEADED OUR WAY!

Yesterday afternoon we received the following warning from San Juan Sailing, from whom we’ve chartered Misty:
Hi SJS team, I’m sure you’re watching this but just wanted to call attention to the storm that is approaching the area this week, expected to hit the islands on Wednesday. The European model forecast sustained winds are in the 20-30 kt range with gusts to 35-40 kts from the S to SE. The North American model is forecasting even stronger winds. Models runs from last night say timing is for the strongest winds to hit early Wednesday morning through mid-day. Rain may be heavy at times. Perhaps a good time for the fleet to shelter in place wherever they may be! Anchorages protected from the south will be popular (e.g., Blind Bay). Marinas even more so. Below is a link to the NWS forecast discussion from early this morning. Gale warnings are expected for the coast and small craft advisories for inland waters are a pretty good bet if the forecast verifies. Plan to hunker down! 

A Windy capture showing the massive low-pressure system about to make landfall

Our Leg 3 team have been very aware of the weather, checking www.windy.com on their phones several times a day, starting as soon as they’re out of their bunks before breakfast. For the last four days they’ve been tracking a large storm system coming across the North Pacific from Japan has been expanding as it got closer, and the forecasted wind speeds for the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Rosario Strait have been holding steady as the system approaches, not diminishing as is normally the case.
Heavy weather experience is normally one of the learning topics we see on applications, and this crew is no exception. However, crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca in gale conditions with possible wind against tide on a charter boat isn’t on our list of prudent moves, so yesterday we crossed from Dungeness Spit to Hunter Bay on Lopez Island a day earlier than planned.

Tuesdays departing quiet view of Dungeness Spit Lighthouse with the Olympics towering behind

Shane taught Mary how to seize the dinghy shackle after teaching Lisa the same process on the anchor shackle

We scoured the charts looking for an anchorage sheltered from the forecasted SE winds and came up with the same two as Lothar Taylor at San Juan Sailing suggested, Watmaugh Bay on Lopez where we’d anchored for lunch on Leg 0 and Hunter Bay further around the SE corner of Lopez. The two moorings in the most protected, furthest in part of Watmaugh were both taken, so as our team continued reefing, practice as we motored into Hunter Bay which only had four boats anchored and plenty of room.

To simplify reefing, it was decided that we should tape the reefing lines and halyard with “Go To” marks

Instructions for hoisting, reefing and lowering the mainsail get refined daily

Heather Bansmer and Shawn Breeding’s excellent San Juan Islands, A Boaters Guidebook provided a concise chartlet of Hunter Bay and mentioned a charming 1.5-mile walk to Southend Market. With a sunny afternoon and ice cream calling, we launched Misty’s RIB and headed ashore, grateful for the county dock that provided easy shore access. Lopez Island is famously friendly and on our hike to the store and back every single driver that passed us waved.

Smiles all round in the dinghy as we return from a jolly walk ashore

Back aboard, Amanda led Rig Check Aloft, with all expedition members going at least to the first spreader, if not to the masthead. As Rig Check was still going after sunset and Amanda made certain everyone got safely aloft I jumped in the galley to make Walu’s Lentils. This recipe features in her new second edition of The Essential Galley Companion and it’s always-favorite with expedition crew. Thankfully, Amanda had typed up the recipe for eight and prepared the spices, so it was super quick to make.

The breeze started cranking around 0300 and by dawn the now ten boats sheltering in the bay were dancing in different directions. Looking through the entrance with binoculars we can see lots of white water. Smith Island, located halfway from here to Dungeness Spit is reporting 31 knots.

Leg 3 started with the first clear skies we’d seen in a week, and after crew briefing Friday night we set sail Saturday morning the best sailing conditions yet as we gybed our way up Hale Passage and north of Orcas and Waldron toward tiny Patos Island.

Before departing Bellingham, we review the the charts and overall expedition itinerary.

Just before reaching Patos our vigilant crew spotted several orca whales, our first sightings of year! Sadly, both state park moorings were occupied and looking carefully at the anchorage possibilities, we decided to carry on, anchoring at Prevost Harbor, Stuart Island. There were a third the number of boats in Prevost Harbor than we’d seen a week earlier, so finding a protected spot to anchor without crowding any already-anchored boats was a cinch. We fired up the barbie and enjoyed a salmon dinner before launching into navigation. The forecast suggested better sailing conditions if we set sail Sunday morning directly for the grand Pacific.

That is what we did, raising anchor at 0700 to take advantage of a favorable tide and enjoying some great sailing as we passed San Juan Island and headed across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

With navigation mastered Shane and Mary brief the crew on the Sunday’s passage to the Straits

As the fog held off as we round Turn Point Lighthouse giving us a nice morning view of this iconic headland

When we reached San Juan Island breakfast became a challenge as we suddenly entered thick fog with numerous ships paralleling our course

We then had a mixture of gorgeous clear skies with the rugged Olympic mountain bordering us to the south mixed with patches of dense fog as we sailed (when there was enough wind) and motored out the Straits.

We were able to take sun sights thanks to a lovely long patch of sunshine

By midnight we were well out into the Pacific with a million stars overhead and a clear horizon, allowing us to see the Tatoosh Island light astern as well as steady stream of ships exiting and entering the shipping lanes which were a couple miles north and west of us. In the early hour of Tuesday morning our crew made the decision to turn around.

Simon completes the hourly log entry

By 1100 we arrived at Port Angeles Boat Haven with plenty of time for showers, lunch and exploring ashore before setting sail that afternoon for Dungeness Spit and a night at anchor. While enroute, Amanda taught sail design and sail trim.

September 24, 2020 1000 hrs, 48.45N, 122.30W Log: 658 miles
Bellingham Marina

The forecast of gale warnings prompted Amanda and our hearty crew to re-reeve the reef lines on Misty’s crisp new Bellingham Sails mainsail

By the time we exited Lopez Island’s Hunter Bay we had the third reefs in and the second reef available. As with most current booms, there are only sheaves for two reef points, and Kurt, Misty’s owner had spec’d the new main to have three reef points. We were slightly under-canvassed for a few minutes, then we saw the maelstrom ahead and fought to reduce the headsail to handkerchief-size as Misty heeled in gusts to 42 knots. We rotated crew through helm position, and it was great to see their excited grins as they guided Misty past Bird then Bell Rocks.

Mary takes a trick at the helm while Rick keeps lookout

Very curious to see how the Sun Odyssey would do with storm tactics, we completely furled the headsail and Lisa set the wheel brake to try fore-reaching, our favorite storm tactic.
The result was impressive – Misty kept on track without a headsail, autopilot or hand on the wheel. Lisa did have to make minor corrections when the wind occasionally dropped below 30 kts, but overall, fore-reaching proved successful.

We were glad we’d run the third reef

We were all kept busy as we put Misty through a few storm tactics

Wind eased briefly while we were in the lee of Fidalgo Island, but then returned with a vengeance as we rounded the NE corner of the island, with gusts over 40 kts as we motored into the entrance channel to Cap Sante Marina. After topping up Misty’s fuel tanks, we cast off with gusts still in the 40’s, choosing not to attempt the downwind landing at the berth we’d been assigned, instead opting for the open end of C dock. Hot showers and a “Team Awesome” crew dinner at Village Pizza were very welcome.

Thursday morning Mike Beemer taught Diesel Engines and Electrical Systems at the Marine Tech Center before Amanda had our eager crew stitching patches on sailcloth using the college’s two new Sailrite sewing machines.

The eye of the huge storm provided clear and sunny skies and excellent broad-reaching conditions as we sailed the 20 miles from Anacortes to Bellingham stopping to allow each expedition member to perform our modified Fishtail-Quickstop Lifesling Rescue procedures.

Fishtail-Quickstop Lifesling Rescue procedures in full swing

With calm waters and a spare hour Mary practices her sail repair baseball stitch with palm and needle

We were in for a treat Thursday night following our Selecting an Ocean Cruising Boat PowerPoint seminar. Mary’s musician husband Tony showed up for dinner with his guitar. What a treat! Although it currently says, “No guitars, please” on our PNW Sea Bag Gear List, we are going to change that. The backside of the huge North Pacific storm arrived Friday morning, with gusts over 50 kts substantially heeling Misty over amid driving rain.

Our Team Awesome crew did an awesome job of tidying up Misty for the handover back to San Juan Sailing, and just like that, our 2020 expedition season was complete.

Introducing Leg 3-2020 aka Team AWESOME!  – Mary, Simon, Lisa, Mark, Shane, and Rick

Mary, 55
I’m originally from the Pacific Northwest and my husband Tony and I learned to sail when we moved to the SF Bay area. We’ve lived aboard our Cal 39 in Alameda for several years and this expedition has given me the confidence to begin thinking about the skills I’ll need to sail our boat to Mexico. (Mary is a freelance copy editor).

Simon, 48
Originally from Manchester, UK, I’ve been a keelboat owner and coastal cruiser in Puget Sound for 15 years. I fell in love with cruising on a charter in Scotland as a teenager, and with my partner Lisa, I’m getting sucked ever deeper into the life. We’re hoping to find our bluewater boat with John’s help and if all goes well we’ll be cutting the docklines and be Pacific bound before too long.

Lisa, 45
I’m half-mermaid and love the water and everything related. I love to sail with my partner, Simon, on our Catalina 30 and aspire to sail major passages and have a grand adventure once we find a larger boat. By day, I write software, knit, play piano and love to spend time with family, friends, dance, meet new people and rid my motorcycle.
Here’s a limerick Lisa wrote for our crew:
On a sailboat called Misty Blue
Rick-Mark-Shane-Si Lis Mary too
‘Manda-John taught us well
How to handle ocean swell
And we all became better crew

Mark, 55
I live in Seattle and spend my weekdays building young companies. On the weekends I’ve been chartering boats with Windworks and Seattle Sailing Club and taking out with my wife and 14-year-old son to enjoy sailing on Puget Sound. Someday I hope to sail off and see more of the world with my family.

Shane, 45
In my previous life I worked in corporate IT. I decided I’d had enough of cubicle life and quit my job, sold my house, and bought a camper. Now I ski in the winter and have been a campground host in Glacier National Park in the summer back home in Montana. My dream is to sail the far reaches and I’m now looking for a boat with hopes to find one soon. Learning with Amanda and John was a great experience and I feel like I’m now better prepared to start my sailing adventures.

Rick, 61
I’m from Lewiston, MD and just retied from corporate life. My wife and I are closing on an Outbound 44 in a week or so and are trying to get it home to the Chesapeake before the canals and bridges close for the winter. We’re excited about cruising the Chesapeake and East Coast to start with.

Yay, Lisa (aka Tiger) and Amanda finally get a knitting session together

***********************************

Before departing Bellingham Amanda and I met with Greg, the owner of Obelix, the Garcia Expedition 45 we’ll be using starting April 28, 2021, assuming we’re unable to return to Mahina Tiare III in Auckland, New Zealand.

On recommendation of our 2020 expedition members our 2021 Pacific NW expeditions will each be 9 days, instead of this year’s 7 days, allowing us to add Medicine at Sea and Diesel Engine Overview to the curriculum. Assuming Canada/American border opens we’ll sail 1/3 of the way up Vancouver Island to the spectacular Barkley Sound.

Obelix, the Garcia Expedition 45 we’ll be using in our Mahina Ocean21 expeditions

Additionally, Leg 4 will sail 350 miles from Bellingham to the northern tip of Vancouver Island and out into the North Pacific before ending in Port Hardy, one of our favorite northern BC ports. Leg 5 will be a first for us, and a dream come true, sailing down the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island from Port Hardy, to end in Bellingham 12 days later.

Finally, we’d like to say a big THANK YOU!!! to the excellent and dedicated crew, from the three partners, Danelle, Mike and Lothar to the 60 boat cleaners and fixers at San Juan Sailing and to Kurt and Etjen, Misty’s owners for their help and support which made our first of many series of Pacific Northwest training expeditions a total success.

1September 17, 2020 1000 hrs, 48.30N, 122.36W Log: 351 miles
Moored, Cap Sante Marina, Anacortes
Baro: 1013, Cabin Temp: 68 F, Cockpit Temp: 65 F, Sea Water: Ch-ch-chilly!

Leg 2 Crew: Lisa, Diana, Amanda, Jim, Yarden, Richard, and Alfonso with John taking the picture.

Leg 2 started on a smokey Friday September 11 and Saturday morning we motored and sailed 35 miles to Stuart Island’s Prevost Harbor, pausing to check out the lighthouse on Patos Island through the fog and smoke. Smoke from intense wildfires in California, Oregon and Eastern Washington meant we would be running under continual radar watch for the entire week.

I’d been tipped off regarding an exciting book, The Light on the Island, written by 12 year old Helen Glidden, who lived on this tiny, isolated island located very near the US-Canada border with her lighthouse keeping father and family. She writes descriptively of immigrant smugglers, rumrunners, gun battles and what it was like to grow up isolated from society.

There is one tiny cove where we saw the remains of the coast guard wharf but the two state park mooring buoys were occupied and it didn’t look like there was any simple place to anchor in the tiny bay. The lighthouse looked very sharp and is maintained by a group of dedicated volunteers. The light keeper’s home was purposefully burned down a few years ago, but it would sure be fun to get ashore and explore the lighthouse and island. Maybe on Leg 3!

Once again, the www.windy.com forecast predicted light headwinds if we were to set sail as planned at 0200 Sunday for Neah Bay and the broad Pacific, so we chose to anchor in Prevost Harbor Saturday night.

The small harbor was packed, and it took a couple tries before we were content with an anchorage that wouldn’t be too close to other vessels or to the numerous rocks at low tide.

That evening, Lisa and Jim prepared wild-caught Alaskan salmon and cooked it to perfection on Misty’s barbecue.

We had thick smoke and fog Sunday and Amanda taught Rig Inspection as I dodged lots of small salmon fishing boats as we approached Henry Island’s Open Bay in the late afternoon. We all turned in early, in anticipation of our 0200 departure.

48 North magazine readers, sailors, and locals Richard, Jim and Lisa pose with Amanda and a 48 North Magazine at a smoked-in Turn Point Lighthouse.

Diana and Alfonso were on watch as we departed in the fog Monday morning. Once we were a mile or two down San Juan Island’s west coast the fog lifted enough to see lights ashore and we had little traffic and a little wind as we crossed the Straits toward Port Angeles, then turned and followed the coast.
Just as forecasted, following outflow winds increased throughout the day and we all delighted to shut the engine down as we sailed toward the ocean. Just six miles from Neah Bay the winds lightened, and we started motorsailing again. As always, once we start up, I checked the volt meters at Misty’s nav station. Instead of seeing13.6 volts (float voltage) the readout at the chart table read 12.5 volts. A quick check of the Xantrex Link 10 voltage monitor showed a minus 10.2 amps, indicating the alternator was no longer working. We shut the engine down, and Jim and I checked for loose wires. Finding none, I emailed Kurt, Misty’s owner and was delighted to hear back there was a spare alternator under the forward port berth.

Almost too good to believe, we found a shiny new Balmar 120-amp high output alternator and our navigator adjusted our course to include an anchorage stop in Neah Bay to switch out alternators. The only slight issue was that the ring terminals on the wiring harness were too small for the beefier posts on the Balmar. Not finding a rat-tail file which would have allowed us to enlarge the ring terminals, Jim had the good idea of snipping the ring terminals with side cutter, spreading them apart, and then attaching them to the Balmar.

John and Jim start sorting out the Balmar wiring

The new Balmar had not yet been fitted to the engine so it took a bit of improvising to get bolted on with correct belt tension

There were cheers all around when we re-started the engine and the Xantrex monitor showed the new alternator was charging at 40 amps, and in no time the anchor was up and we were sailing downwind for the gap between Tatoosh Island and Duncan & Duntze Rocks and out into the broad Pacific.  We held that course until our crew decided to turn around – next stop Port Angeles where we arrived at 0700 in thick smoke and fog.

A smoggy Tatoosh Island

Jim shares a romantic happy kiss with Lisa as we reach our Ocean turn-around destination

Lisa at work plotting our return route

Tatoosh Island looks small on the chart but it’s light is a big welcoming sight

Alfonso and Diana have the watch at 0200

Early afternoon following showers and lunch ashore in Port Angeles, we set sail in occasionally thick smog for Dungeness Spit and undertook a reefing competition until we found a perfectly calm anchorage with a colorful sunset. Once we anchored, Amanda rigged up Misty’s monitor so I could teach Storm Avoidance and Survival Techniques while Amanda made dinner.

Richard, Captain of the Day, leads the reefing competition

An early morning departure Wednesday saw up crossing the Straits with light winds and mostly very thick fog. Richard, who lives on Lopez Island gave us some tips and directed us to Aleck Bay, on the south side of Lopez where we anchored for lunch before setting sail for Anacortes in patchy smoke and haze.

Crew master splicing underway to Anacortes

This crew were grateful for Mike Beemer’s diesel and electric training at Skagit Valley College’s Marine Tech Center Thursday morning, and several mentioned they now plan to sign up for extended courses at the college.

Our extensive docking practice just before exiting Cap Sante Marina proved a big hit, with each expedition member choosing a different docking maneuver and location before we set sail north for Bellingham. The windy extensive Bellingham Bay provided an excellent sail with the perfect spot to practice Lifesling Overboard Rescue before arriving at Squalicum Harbor where I presented Selecting and Purchasing an Ocean Cruising Boat PowerPoint before doing a dock walk with crew, pointing out good options for offshore cruising boats.

Diana takes up off the fuel dock then Lisa skillfully berths Misty amongst the fishing fleet

Diana displays a big smile now that were finally sailing with nearly blue skies.

Jim and Lisa learning the finer points of sail design and trim from Amanda

Friday morning cam around quickly with and early breakfast, packing, washdown and celestial navigation class before crew bid farewell and headed to new adventures.

It’s never a dull moment with Captain Action Man….even wash down is fun

Image08c ( NOTE  – image out of order on purpose)

The fearless Tatoosh Alternator Expedition Crew at our Pacific turnaround point: Yarden, Alfonso, Richard, Jim, Diana, and Lisa

Richard, 39
I grew up around boats and the water, learning sailing from my father who was a sailmaker and a rigger. I now live on Lopez Island with my wife where we have an Olson 25 for local racing and gunkholing. I joined this expedition not only to gain more experience with ocean voyaging, but also to learn how to teach others. (Richard works remotely in IT which allows him and his wife to live in Paradise!)

Alfonso, 54
I’m originally from Spain but have been living in California for 25 years. I just sold my C&C 35 sloop with the idea of going towards a bluewater sailboat to increase passage range and to ultimately cruise worldwide. I’m interested in crewing for others, trying on different boats and helping with sailboat deliveries until I buy my next sailboat.

Diane, 66
I’m a retired RN, new to sailing and married to a passionate sailor. We have a Cal 35 that we sailed from Newport Beach, CA to Mexico and have enjoyed sailing all the Pacific coast of Mexico as well as the Sea of Cortez. It’s now time to buy a larger boat and go wherever live leads under sail. I joined this adventure to gain knowledge and confidence. Mission accomplished!

Jim & Lisa Osse
Jim: I’m a retired ocean engineer and spent 30 years designing and building autonomous underwater instrumentation for the UW, NATO and NOAA. I’ve repeatedly dove at the North Pole for my work and have a special desire for all things cold and blue. I hope my wife and I can venture to the high latitudes with a sailboat and this expedition was a big step in that plan. (Jim and Lisa kayaked 1300 miles from Lake Washington (Seattle) to Ketchikan, Alaska in 117 days. Sounds like a beautiful and brutal experience!)

Yarden, 60
Living by snow peaks in the middle of the desert in Utah, I decided one day to retire early, sell my house and sail around the world. I packed my Miata and drove to Bellingham, camping along the way and passing wildfires in Eastern WA. Now that I’ve completed this expedition, I’ll stop by Swiftsure Yachts in Seattle to order a new Allures 45 to sail from the Arctic to the tropics and down to Antarctica. Should be a wild ride, and you are welcome to join me.

September 9, 2020 1700 hrs, 48.24N, 124.36W Log: 1949 miles
Broad reaching under full sail at 6-7 kts
Baro: 1018, Cabin Temp: 70 F, Cockpit Temp: 65 F, Sea Water: Ch-ch-chilly!

Between Legs 0 and 1, Amanda and I spent time organizing provisions and supplies for the three upcoming back-to-back expeditions and enjoying our first summer on San Juan Island since 1996. We discovered the process to be easier the second time around and Amanda created three separate boxes of supplies for each expedition which we are lucky enough to be able to stash at a friend’s home in Anacortes.

When we met our Leg 1 crew near San Juan Sailing’s office at 8 pm Friday they were all chatting happily with each other and excited to be heading off on a sailing expedition.

Leg 1 Crew – Bob, Chuck. Alice, Julie, Scott, Gi and John with Amanda taking the photo.

Together we studied the weeks wind predictions on www.windy.com and it quickly became apparent that following our published itinerary would have us motoring in light and variable winds the entire way from Henry Island to Neah Bay plus out into the broad Pacific. On the other hand, delaying our departure from Henry Island by 24 hours would see us sailing downwind in winds of 20-30 knots out the straits so that’s the option our intrepid crew chose.

Scott, navigator of the day, crew our intended route.

From Bellingham’s Squalicum Harbor we had quite good winds, sailing most of the way 36 miles to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. Stuart Island is always mentioned in the top two or three must-visit anchorages in the San Juan Islands, featuring two state park docks and moorings on both Reid and Prevost harbors. Being Labor Day weekend, we expected a crowd, and sure enough, by sunset we counted 70 sail and power vessels spread evenly down the two-mile long Reid Harbor. This island was also my home for seven years, and it was different to be at anchor, looking ashore, rather than the other way around

The temps were in the high 70’s, winds in the anchorage were light – perfect weather for Gio to barbecue the HUGE striped bass he had spearfished in Lake Mojave, frozen, and brought on ice on the 20 hour drive from Arizona to Bellingham. Once it started thawing out, he’d marinated the bass in olive oil, lime, garlic and parsley. It filled the double-stacked barbecue several times, but our hearty crew devoured nearly all of it.

Gio, hard at work.

Gio displaying his spearfishing effort at Lake Mojave

Now this is what cruising is about!

In the morning, with only seven miles to sail to our chosen anchorage of Open Bay, Henry Island, we focused on teaching at anchor. Amanda taught deck-level rig inspection plus going aloft. Alice had a slight fear of heights but with some gentle encouragement from the remaining crew she ascended to masthead and was chuffed she’d accomplished this.

Weather rules onboard but navigation is a serious duty which requires all crew to become proficient at.

Alice returns to the deck happy to have conquered her apprehension of going aloft.

We had a brilliant sail to Henry Island in winds that started light and gradually filled in, with our crew getting faster and more proficient with every tack. We were amazed how close-winded Misty, the Jeanneau 45.1 that we’ve chartered from San Juan Sailing was. Her 7’ draft likely has a lot to do with her excellent sailing performance!

Last time we shared Open Bay with five other pleasure boats, but this time we had this gorgeous bay to ourselves, and a spectacular sunset to boot! Much of evening was taken up with laying out courses on paper charts, calculating course and distance for each leg, then inputting the latitude and longitude into the Garmin MFD and our navigational laptop computer running C-Map charts of Rose Point Coastal Explorer.

We’ve not been impressed with Garmin’s documentation, and after our Leg 0 crew scanned the confusing owner’s manual, they wrote up much-simplified directions which Amanda printed and laminated.

At 0230 this morning various alarm clocks went off and by 0300 Misty’s anchor was up and we were on our way under a sky ablaze with stars and the glow of Victoria’s lights on our starboard beam. Slowly the wind filled in and we’ve enjoyed ideal downwind sailing conditions today, never needing to reef and with calm enough conditions to complete our Marine Weather II class.

Chuck points out another log to the helmsman. With numerous logs in the Pacific NW vicinity it’s imperative to have a bow lookout.

Currently we’re just passing the entrance to Neah Bay, the Makah Indian village where we anchored on Leg 0. With a crew keen to experience ocean sailing, we’re holding course for offshore!

September 10, 2020 1705 hrs, 48.45N, 122 30 W Log: 104 miles (has been reset)
Moored, Squalicum Marina, Bellingham

Passing Tatoosh Island lighthouse is a tiny bit like rounding Cape Horn light. It’s rather monumental as Amanda and I always think about the many times we’ve made landfall here, and how grateful we’ve been to spot this iconic island and light.

Amanda related to crew the story of making landfall here in November 1980 after a horrendous wintertime passage. Having been booted out of Sausalito for overstaying their visas, they battled gale to storm force conditions as they made their way north. While on watch Amanda listened to a radio station account of a fishing boat capsizing that night at one of Oregon bar entrances, and the rescue Coast Guard helicopter attempting to rescue the fishermen crashed into the sea.

Long before electronic navigation, Amanda’s father hadn’t seen the sun for several days before making landfall so was going only by dead reckoning. When they started spotting logs a debris in the water, they surmised they must be at the entrance of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and turned east into an outgoing tidal current. Amanda say the lighthouse stood stationary for her entire night watch but after going to bed in the early morning it was how glorious to be woken up in calm seas as they neared Victoria after a fast passage on the incoming tide.

Surprisingly, but consistent with www.windy.com forecast, a few miles past Tatoosh Island, our following winds dropped off completely. We continued motorsailing on out into the calm ocean with humpback whales blowing all around us until our crew made a unanimous decision on their own to turn around before forecasted fresh outflow winds would make retracing our route very difficult.

Team Enterprise – Alice, Gio, Chuck, Scott and Julie…. Tio Bob is MIA.

Scott masters his helming as we motorsail in chunky swells past Tatoosh Island.

Julie and Alice find navigating down below no problem as we bounce and occasionally slam to windward.

We continued 55 miles ESE from Tatoosh Island, hugging the coastline, motorsailing against wind and current through the night to arrive after dawn off Ediz Hook, the spit that protects Port Angeles, to then moor at the visitor’s float just before the marina office opened. The assistant harbormaster said they didn’t expect any more arrivals that day and that we were welcome to stay without charge. After breakfast we headed to the showers then up town for exploration.

The forecast called for the fresh easterly winds to diminish at 1600 but by the time we all returned from town at 1400 and were ready to start class, the winds were light and Amanda suggested we set off for Dungeness Spit, halfway between Port Angeles and Port Townsend, so we did. Now that crew were more proficient at helming, we were able to set the autopilot while Amanda taught 3-strand splicing. Wildfires in central and eastern Washington provided a spectacular sunset while we anchored just off the picturesque lighthouse in very sheltered conditions.

Three-strand splicing was mastered by all.

We had an early night and by 0700 everyone was up so we chose to raise the anchor and set sail for Lopez Island. Geo had very carefully plotted our course and entered waypoints for Watmaugh Bay on the SE tip of Lopez, but with very calm conditions and as an extra navigational exercise I suggested we instead explore Macaye Harbor, inside of the SW tip of Lopez.

California sealions provide comic amusement as we pass a buoy. It was a treasure having Julie aboard as her extensive marine knowledge helped enlighten us. Do you know that elephant seals can dive down 2 miles in search of their favorite food which is giant squid? Oh, and they go to sleep on the way down to conserve energy.

We arrived at an excellent anchorage just off the county park and dock and I taught Anchoring Techniques Worldwide before we got underway for Anacortes. Wednesday was one of the warmest days of the year and we all kept peeling off layers as we go closer to Anacortes.

Gio takes a noon site on route to Anacortes

City-owned and immaculately kept Cap Sante Marina has an ever-changing assortment of interesting yachts and boats of all sizes, and this visit was no exception. Since every one of Leg 1 expedition members is looking for a cruising boat, they walked the docks with great enthusiasm, checking out several boat with FOR SALE signs.

Thursday morning was out half-day of instruction at Skagit Valley College’s Marine Tech Center and director Mike Beemer was in top form as he detailed the latest and best in new electrical power storage and generation options before diving into a hands-on diesel engine demo. Mike was especially proud to show off the Westsail 39 the college had recently purchased as a rebuild and refit project for the marine training program. View their progress on YouTube: SVC Skallywags

Mike explains the importance of battery monitoring.

Before we knew it, it was time to set sail for Bellingham, but not without some serious docking practice. Every EM practiced docking on the partially empty guest dock, with several even practicing backing into empty slips.

Bellingham Bay provided an excellent place to practice our modified Quick-Stop Lifesling overboard rescue procedures, with everyone acing the rescue.

Scott was told by his three-year-old daughter to take one of her dolls with him. Here’s Dolly with a new marine friend.

Upon his return home Scott sent us this image of Helen lovin’ Dolly’s friend.

Tio Bob, “Capitán del Día”, lends a hand as Team Enterprise crew members Gio, Alice and Julie lower the main for the final time,

And then…we were back in Misty’s slip, ready to wash down, go through Selecting an Ocean Cruising Boat PowerPoint seminar and share a serious dock-walk through the marina, pointing out and discussing merits and detractions of dozens of different cruising boats.

Here is our awesome Enterprise Leg 1 crew:

Julie, 35
What better way to commence the transition from landlubber to mermaid than spending a week at sea! My husband Gio and I are starting our cruising adventure in the new year and arrived on this expedition excited to progress our sailing skills, learn navigation and gain offshore experience. In my non-mermaid life, I enjoy marine natural history, my chickens and tie-dye projects. (Julie is a scientist for National Park Service and has worked at a wide range of different parks. One of the nights when she was storyteller, she gave us a great briefing on the pinnipeds of the NW and how to distinguish between seals and sea lions)

Hello, my name is Gio. I’m 37 and have lived in the Mohave Desert of Arizona for the past 12 years. In that time, I’ve been a fish biologist for US Fish & Wildlife and a self-employed contractor. My passion is spearfishing and adventure and my wonderful wife. We both have a deep passion for the ocean and have decided to realize our goals of self-sufficiency as cruisers and dining in every ocean of the world.

Scott, 34
I’m a demographer living in Snohomish County, WA with my wife, daughter, and soon-to-be-born son. Before I left on this expedition my daughter wanted me to take one of her dolls with me. It was a highlight of the trip to take a selfie with her doll overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The view of the Milky Way seen from the cockpit as we were returning from the ocean was a close second. I can’t wait to go sail the world with my family!

Bob, 52
I’m a desert rat from Arizona with limited sailing experience other than ASA training and desert lake sailing on my Hobie Cat. I’ve truly enjoyed this expedition as it’s opened my eyes to the reality of cruising and sailing.

Alice
As a nurse I’ve always had a love for life. To see the whales, seals was exciting and viewing the Milky Way at midnight without city lights was truly spectacular.

Chuck, 59

I’m from Vancouver, WA on the Columbia River where I previously sailed my Cascade 29, out of Hood River, OR, usually triple-reefed with a storm jib in 35-45 kt winds. Right now, I sail with a friend and am planning on purchasing a 40’ blue water sailboat within a year and leaving within three